Evaluasi tekstil

Pendahuluan

Evaluasi tekstil  adalah pengetahuan untuk menilai mutu dari bahan dan produk tekstil secara fisika dan kimia.Untuk itu diperlukan macam-macam ilmu pengetahuan tentang bahan-bahan tekstil,cara pengujian dan peralatannya,pengetahuan tentang standarisasi,pengetahuan pengolahan data dan interpretasi data,statistik,pengetahuan dasar Keteknikan (engineering) dan kimia.

Pengetahuan ini sangat penting baik di Industri maupun diperdagangan tekstil. Banyak keputusan yang penting dalam industri maupun dalam perdagangan yang mendasarkan pada pengetahuan evaluasi tekstil.

Evaluasi bahan tekstil dapat dilakukan sebelum proses ,sewaktu proses dan setelah proses. Bahkan sampai bahan tekstil di perdagangkan .

Maksud dan Tujuan dari evaluasi tekstil.

·        Dibidang penelitian ; Hasil evaluasi akan dapat  membantu para scientist untuk menentukan arah penelitiannya.

·        Seleksi bahan baku; Dalam proses produksi bahan baku merupakan satu diantara faktor-faktor terpenting untuk menentukan baik atau tidaknya produk yang dihasilkan. Karena nya evaluasi terhadap mutu bahan baku sebelumnya di proses mutlak harus dilakukan.

·        Spesifikasi bahan-bahan tekstil ; Keuntungan dengan adanya spesifikasi bahan yang telah ditetapkan atau disetujui adalah pencegahan penggunaan bahan baku yang bermutu rendah,Sebagai target mutu produksi sesuai dengan  keinginan konsumen.

·        Standarisasi ; Dalam rangka labeling,dan pengontrolan mutu/kwalitas baha, proses dan produk maka diperlukan evaluasi/pemeriksaan yang dibandingkan dengan standart yang digunakan. Untuk melaksanakan evaluasi sering kita mem butuhkan tersedianya standart mutu atau standard performance dan standard pengujiannya,standart cara –cara pengujian,standard pengambilan sampel,standard pengolahan data dan sebagainya.

Macam dan jenis evaluasi bahan dan produk tekstil adalah :

 

 

Textile Testing and Analysis (Quality Control in Textile)

 

A.Raw Materials and General

·        Fibre identification and content

·        Wool grade, Wool Fibre Length

·        Solvent extractable content

·        Feather/down mixtures (Lorch)

·        Non Fibrous Material on Fabric

·        Ash Content/Moisture Regain

·        Fibre Melting Point and Cross-Section

·        Pacifier Evaluation

·        Hazardous Products – Toys

B.Yarn Test

·        Linear density, Twist, Breaking Strength

·        Filament Count

C.Fabric Construction

·        Mass, Fabric Count, Weave, Yarn Crimp

·        Stitch length in knits, Yarn linear density

·        Fabric thickness

·        Frosting

D.Spectrophotometric Analysis

·        U.V. Radiation Transmittance, UPF Colour

E.Fabric Performance Test

·        Air permeability

·        Abrasion Resistance -

·        Accelerator/flex/Taber/ Martindale/Stoll/Stroll/Wyzenbeek

·        Blocking, Breaking strength, Bursting strength

·        Chlorine retention, Cold crack

·        Crease recovery (Angle method), dry or wet

·        Delamination of coating, Downproofness

·        Fabric Wrinkle Recovery

·        Microbiological resistance

·        Modulus (BSI)

·        Mothproofing Resistance (IWS)

·        Oil stain release, pH Value of Water Extract

·        Pilling resistance - Tumble Box, Random

·        tumble, Martindale or Brush

·        “R” / “Clo” value

·        Electrical Resistivity

·        Seam Slippage

·        Shrinkage on laundering,Domestic/Commercial

·        P.P. Rating

·        Shrinkage on wetting/steaming/dry cleaning

·        Snagging resistance, Static cling, Static decay

·        Stiffness (cantilever test)

·        Tearing strength - Elmendorf/Single rip or Trapezoid

·        Water absorption, Water permeability (k)

·        Water resistance

·        Water vapour transmission and Diffusion

·        Yarn shifting

·        Stretch and Recovery

F.Carpet Tests

·        CAN/CGSB-4.129M, CAN/CGSB-4.161M

·        Aachner (ISO 2551 dimensional stability)

·        Delamination, Density

·        Electrostatic properties

·        Hexapod, Pile face weight

·        Resilience to Static Load

·        Separate undercushion CAN/CGSB-20.23

·        Stain resistance

·        Tuft bind

G.Fabric Analysis and Troubleshooting

• Warp streak analysis

• Filling band analysis

• Barré analysis (circular knits)

• Foreign contaminant analysis

• Analysis of off-shade dyeings

• Cotton maturity evaluation

• Determination of sources of fabric holes and weak yarns (finished fabric)

• Fiber defect analysis

H.Colour Fastness Tests

·        Crocking , Laundering, Dry cleaning

·        Burnt gas fumes

·        Light (Fastness)

·        Perspiration

·        Pressing, Sea water, Water, Chlorinated

·        pool water

·        Ozone

I.Colour Measurement

·        Colour Specification/Passing/Sorting

·        Whiteness, Colour difference

·        Dye strength

J.Dyeing and Finishing

·        Mercerization in Cotton

·        Identification of Dyeclass, Dye strength

·        Dyeing properties, Identification of

·        finishes

·        Evaluation of auxiliaries

K.General Testing

• Yarn crimp (woven)

• Count and twist from yarn in fabric

• Dye-on-fiber

• Mock dyeing/leveling

• Strip dye/re-dye

• Color reflectance measurement

• Blend analysis

• Analysis of fiber distribution in yarn

• Denier by microscopy

• Yarn cross sections

• Chemical damage assessment

• Dye rate and capacity studies

• PET density determination

• Sonic modulus of filament or tow

Jenis Standart pengujian menurut ASTM Test Methods

• Fiber identification

• Qualitative textile analysis

• Flammability of apparel textiles

• Differential dyeing of cotton

• Extractable matter determination

• Moisture regain

• Boiling water and dry-heat shrinkage

• Moisture level in textiles

• Bow and skewness test for woven and knitted fabric

• Bulk determination for textured yarns

Jenis Standart pengujian menurut AATCC Test Methods

• Absorbency of bleached textiles

• Alkali in bleach baths containing hydrogen peroxide

• Appearance of apparel and other home textiles after repeated launderings

• Ash content of bleached cellulosic textiles

• Instrumental color measurement of textiles

• Colorfastness to acids and alkalis

• Colorfastness to bleaching with chlorine

• Colorfastness to bleaching with peroxide

• Dimensional changes in automatic home laundering of woven or knitted  

  fabrics

• Dimensional changes in commercial laundering of woven or knit fabrics

• Extractable content of greige and/or prepared textiles

• Qualitative and quantitative fiber analysis

• Gray scale for color change

• Gray scale for staining

• Mercerization in cotton

• pH of water-extract from bleached textiles

• Whiteness of textiles

• Wrinkle-recovery of fabrics